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Cow Green Reservoir, along the nature trail to
the dam and the top of Cauldron Snout falls, along the Pennine Way near
remote farms, Army ranges and high moors to one of the best inland views
you are ever likely to get, down High Cup Nick and across to the
Lakeland fells.
Now this is a beauty, and a rarity in this collection, in that there’s
no pub en route. But it’s worth taking a can or three with your
growlers, because when you arrive at your destination, you’ll want to
stop and look for a while.
Not only is there no pub, but the walk is not circular, either. But it
makes a change to do an out-and-back, and this is worth it in good
weather … honest.
After parking at the Cow Green Reservoir Car Park, follow the signs down
the nature trail towards the dam and Cauldron Snout waterfall. It’s
about a mile down a Tarmac track to the dam, and after passing the gates
which give access to the path across the top, continue to descend and
cross the bridge over the Tees just before it tumbles down Cauldron
Snout.
You are now on the Pennine Way. Follow the track for a few miles, past
the remote Birkdale Farm, where people still live and actually eke out a
living in what has been described as England’s last wilderness. Make
sure you do stick to the track as it climbs after the farm to some old
lead mining remains, a flagpole and some signs warning of activity on
the military range on your left (South).
You can often hear guns going off here, but don’t worry … it’s usually
the British Army training here, and they tend to be a lot more accurate
and more selective in what they hit than their American counterparts.
Continue as the track becomes a path, paved in many parts to keep
erosion down, and you’ll have range warning signs on your left as you
gradually swing further and further away from Maize Beck, which joins
the Tees just below Cauldron Snout.
The views up here are often spectacular (if there’s no low cloud) as the
path swings gently to the left and begins to descend towards the banks
of Maize Beck again. When you eventually join the beck, walk alongside
it until you see an obvious stepping stone crossing to the far bank, but
be very careful after rain when Maize Beck can tend to be too high for
comfort.
The Pennine Way is marked on OS maps to continue on the north and east
banks of the beck, but on our last visit there was an advisory to cross
and, it has to be said, the Pennine Way path does become somewhat
indistinct. Fortunately, the path on the other side is easy to follow
and it eventually brings you to the very edge of High Cup Nick, one of
the wonders of Britain. |
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Basically,
it’s a horseshoe-shaped hole in the ground (above), but what a size, and
what views from the top. The Grand Canyon it isn’t, but it’s not bad all
the same and well worth the walk out and the return, which you can
embark upon as soon as you’ve emptied your cans (remembering to take
the empties home with you).
Just follow
the path you took earlier for the return journey. We don't normally
recommend going over old ground, but this is a good walk, and much of it
is well worth taking a second look from another angle. |