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| A stiff climb up Fremington Edge, great views along the Swale,
moorland track to eerie lead-mining remains and spoil heaps, more good
views before a steep scramble down into Langthwaite and its film-star
pub (above), back to Reeth on either bank of Langthwaite Beck. |
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Parking in
Reeth is usually easy, but can be difficult on holiday weekends. Don’t
forget to put your money in one of the honesty boxes scattered round the
green. When you think it costs more for an hour in most city centres,
it’s a bargain.
This walk has two different routes … one for the mountaineer in you
(well, climber), the other for cissies.
For both, leave Reeth on the B6270 road (try the pavement) towards
Richmond, crossing the narrow bridge over Arkle Beck. Leave the road
just over the bridge, turning sharpish left if you are a wimp, and
bearing right if you are in the mood for a challenge and want the lungs
clearing out.
The easy walk follows the beck upstream to Langthwaite. The more
difficult one involves heading east over a couple of fields to High
Fremington, where you turn left alongside a cottage and start the long
climb on a Tarmac road which becomes a track, then a lane, as it goes up
Fremington Edge. Ignore the footpath sign branching off to the left …
just keep climbing. |
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It’s hard
going (that's it above), specially in hot weather, but honestly it’s
worth it when you get to the top, not long after passing a remote house
ingeniously called White House (guess what colour it’s whitewashed) down
to your left.
When you get to the top, look back over Reeth and a lot further from the
limit of the Yorkshire Dales National Park (Fremington Edge forms the
boundary). The consolation as you get your breath back is that there are
no more climbs like this on the walk (there aren’t many climbs like this
outside the Lake District). Follow the track through a gate and North
over Marrick Moor towards Hurst, where remains of the lead mining
industry, including two chimneys, can be seen.
Hurst is hardly a metropolis, but keep the cottages to your right as you
turn left at the left-hand chimney and follow the path through spoil
heaps over scenery that looks more like the Moon than a beauty spot.
After a mile or so, the path goes through a gate in a dry stone wall and
starts to drop, still going West, towards Slei Gill and the
quaintly-named hamlet of Booze. Pass the farm of Storthwaite Hall on
your right and envy the family that lives there (in summer, anyway),
before crossing Slei Gill by footbridge or ford.
Climb a little and turn right, before another fork takes you left for a
further gentle climb through fields and a farmyard into Booze. Turn left
along the well-defined track (locals call it a road) and follow it for
half a mile down into Langthwaite and the quaint Red Lion. The beer’s
all right, and we really shouldn’t hold it against them that deep in
North Yorkshire, they choose to sell stuff that boasts it’s from
Cornwall. Oh, all right then we will hold it against them. This stuff is
sold at motorway service areas … what’s it doing here?
Both walks leave Langthwaite by heading straight in front of you as you
leave the Red Lion, cutting between cottages and following the Beck
towards Reeth (East). There are two ways back, both of them fairly easy.
Either cross the narrow footbridge on the right about half a mile out of
the village and simply follow the footpath through countless fields and
through countless narrow stiles before emerging through a small gate
onto the Reeth to Langthwaite road. Follow the road back to the village
green, where you'll find pubs and a shop that sells really sickly
nougat.
Or, at the footbridge, keep going and follow the cissy outward route on
the path which mostly sticks alongside Arkle Beck back to Reeth,
emerging at the bridge where you left the village all those miles/pints
earlier.
The shop's nougat bars are made by those people who make Kendal Mint
Cake. If you have any teeth left after pork scratchings, this will do
for them.
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