The Pennine Way as it passes England's biggest waterfall, high moorland overlooking the Tees, Strathmore Lodge, Holwick Scar, the tiny village of Holwick and its equally tiny pub, and back on the Pennine Way alongside the Tees as it tumbles under historic Wynch Bridge and over the beautiful Low Force.

If the Raggylads held a poll for their most popular walk, this would probably win.
Park (and pay Lord Barnard so he can keep the whitewash on all his farms looking clean) at the High Force car park. Don’t be tempted to also pay to walk down his lordship’s footpath to the famous waterfall … you are going to get a far better view soon after the start of the walk. Leave the car park, cross the road and head left (east) carefully … weekend motor-bikers and lorries carrying stone from nearby quarries don’t take a lot of notice of the fact that the road is narrow and goes round a lot of corners. A few yards along the road, follow the footpath sign down a well-maintained and stepped path cutting diagonally down a steep hill towards a riverside meadow. Through the gate at the bottom of the hill, take to the field and head downstream alongside the River Tees for a few hundred yards to a gated bridge. Cross the river and join the Pennine Way, turning right to head upstream.
Climb steeply as the river drops out of site on the right and follow the path, featured by juniper bushes uphill to the left. Eventually, the roar of High Force gradually makes itself heard and after less than a mile, access to a wonderful view of the falls is gained on narrow paths through some bushes.

This is the first of many possible stops on this walk, but you’ll have to tear yourself away eventually, returning to the main path and continuing west. When you pass the top of the falls, gaze in wonder at the fools who take children over the dangerous rocks and you’ll realise why, every now and then, there are accidents which are almost always fatal.
The path continues for over a mile alongside the river, passing an ugly quarry on the opposite bank, where the same rock that helped form the falls is extracted for building roads. The view to the left is far better, punctuated by occasional small waterfalls as tributaries tumble towards the Tees, meaning the footpath is featured by a few well-built footbridges.
As path and river part, you’ll need to climb again on stone slabs and wooden decks, eventually passing an old railway wagon on the left used to store winter food by sheep farmers. A hundred yards or so further on, at the top of the hill, the Pennine Way turns sharply to the right. You take the left fork and head south on a path you can see going through a boggy gate in a dry stone wall. It then joins an ancient drove road, where you turn left. To the right, you can see the track climb high onto Cronkley Fell, after which it drops again to rejoin the river not far from Cauldron Snout falls, at the foot of Cow Green dam.
You should now be heading east along the track until you cross a beck near a wall. Climb again to your right, with the wall on your left (the consolation is that this is the last one … almost). The trick here is to promise yourself a reward at the top … a pie perhaps, a sit down and a sly fag, or just a look at the magnificent scenery.
The clear path continues up the hill, turning onto a track as it levels out later and featured by occasional very clarty streams and shooting boxes, used by the gentry to hide in on those days when grouse turn ugly.
Be aware that while you are not trespassing, like most moors, this land is privately owned and often used for “conservation” … shooting defenceless birds with guns powerful enough to kill big game, let alone something that weighs less than a scrawny supermarket chicken. There’s also a possibility that you’ll hear the noise of even more powerful guns … not many miles to the south and west is the Warcop Range, used by the armed forces for target practice. But don’t worry … walkers don’t usually get hit.
As a wall appears on the right, look over it occasionally to see if there are any mushrooms there. Our resident fungi expert once filled a supermarket carrier bag with big beauties found in this field.
Continue to follow the track, and as it begins to lose height keep your eyes open to the left for Strathmore Lodge. It’s name suggests a little place, but actually it’s as big as many secondary schools and was built by Lord Barnard’s next door neighbour, the Earl of Strathmore, to house people who spend their days out and about killing birds. Royalty have been known to visit, as have other posh folk. With a bit of luck, though, you won’t be bothered by them and will be able to get on with the walk. Amuse yourself with the story of a well-known politician who was shot in the arse (or was it the foot?) while he was a guest here. He probably didn’t feel it.
As the path continues, the rocks of Holwick scar appear on the right. Try not to feel nauseous as you negotiate the ugliest stile in Britain, featured by a carved sheep that is supposed to make the place look better.
The track eventually passes through a gate alongside a small cottage on the right and gives access to a minor road. Follow it east and half a mile or so down the hill, the Strathmore Arms is on the right. If the weather’s OK, sit outside, if not go in and enjoy the warm fire and the cold beer. That’s if they are open – one small party got there one day to find the place closed. Grown men cried as they raced back to the High Force Hotel.
After you’ve had a pint, have another and look forward to the walk back. Then have another for luck.
Leave the pub and turn left, going back up the hill (hard work after four or five pints) until you see a narrow gate in the wall on the right. Follow the path across a couple of fields, taking care to obey notices asking you not to disturb animals.
A stile at the bottom gives access to the Pennine Way again, where you turn left and follow it for a mile or three alongside the river. Pass the ancient Wynch Bridge on the right and a little further be careful you are not offended by a middle-aged man who enjoys bathing nude in the river. That cold water doesn’t exactly flatter, if you know what we mean.
The river on the right, meadows on the left, you’d probably want the walk to continue for a lot longer, but eventually you arrive at the bridge over the river you crossed all those hours ago at the start. Cross it again, make for the gate at the far end of the field and climb the steps to return to the road and the car park.