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25th Jul 2008 


Walk This Way
This beer's good A walk of varied length faturing pubs galore
By The Rambler - November 30 2006
Map: OS Explorer OL7 (English Lakes south east area). Start & finish: Coniston. Distance: anything between 11 and 17 miles. Pubs: Three in Coniston, Eagle's Head in Satterthwaite (for those who go astray), Tower Bank Arms in Near Sawrey, three in Hawkshead. >

From Coniston (pubs), round the top of the lake, climb then descend to Grizedale Forest Visitor Centre (or Satterthwaite), climb again and descend to Esthwaite Water, Near Sawrey (pub), Hawkshead (pubs) and back to Coniston (hourly buses if required).

This is a long one, but as with so many in the Lake District, well worth the effort. And the pubs encountered on the way aren't bad either.

Start in Coniston Village, where there's a public car park as well as limited street parking, and follow the minor road that travels east towards the northern tip of the lake, using the parallel footpath. At the road junction, take the narrow road signed for Brantwood on the lake's east shore (there's a car park near the junction where you can start the walks if you wish).

Follow the road for about half a mile as it steadily climbs, and just after a junction on the left, turn left opposite Lanehead Outdoor Pursuit Centre and climb the bridle way almost south.

This is the difficult bit because:

  1. The signposts in Grizedale Forest were crap when we were there, but they promise improvements

  2. It's difficult to keep your sense of direction in forests

  3. There are lots of paths, bridleways and cycle routes

  4. We aren't very good at map reading

  5. The Forestry Commission keep chopping down trees and planting new ones

Anyway, do what you can to walk in a sort of south south east direction, consulting your map, compass, gps system, Nepalese guide, seaweed and anything else that comes to hand. You are heading via Park Plantation (marked on map) and Broad Piece for Grizedale, where the Forestry Commission have their regional HQ and a visitor centre. We got it wrong and finished up in Satterthwaite a mile or so to the south, but we got there in the end after seeing some forest sculptures ... very nice, but we couldn't help feeling the money would have been better spent on signposts for thick walkers.

Some of our party walks through a piece of "art", while looking for signposts.

In Grizedale, just after the Forestry Commission HQ, there's a track to the right next to a white building which we think used to be a youth hostel. Take that and climb again through more trees, but the path is a lot easier to follow and after travelling north east at first, swing a bit more east with the track until you descend, with trees on your right and open land to the left, to a minor road. Turn left and almost immediately right down a narrow path which descends further to another road. Follow this along the shores of Esthwaite Water past the fish farm and bear left, following the signs to Near Sawrey. At the road junction, turn right for the Tower Bank Arms, which is small but perfectly formed .. good beer and good food. It's right next to Hill Top, the farm where somebody called Beatrix Potter lived, but that needn't concern you.

Pie break ... but nobody had a clue where we were.

From the pub, turn ,left down the road towards Hawkshead, and take the first right between some cottages. Follow the road past a farm and barns and start a gentle climb into open land for a three-miler to Hawkshead.

The route is dead easy to follow, past the National Trust-owned Moss Eccles Tarn on the left, Wise Een Tarn on the left and another, without a name, to the right through some trees. You're no longer on Forestry Commission land, so there are signposts that help you find your way back to Hawkshead, turning to the left twice before descending into a village that has more good pubs than are good for a chap.

There's a bus service that takes about 15 minutes to go to Coniston and after another pub visit, that was our choice. But you can walk back by taking the path near a sign pointing out the Grammar School where a chap called Wordsworth was a former pupil and skirts to the left of the lofty parish church. There are lots of routes back to Coniston, and if you use the map you should be OK. Mind, the bus drivers all know the way.


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